Saturday, January 09, 2010


I’ve been meaning to post something self important saying that Sam’s World of Pain has been on hold for a while due to temporary happiness but before I got round to this Christmas arrived, and with it darkness. I’m starting to realise that this link I’ve made in my head between entertainment and pain is not a commonly held connection and that perhaps I’m a bit messed up. It really shocked me when I made the sudden realization that people actually enjoy the X-factor after those initial episodes characterized by delusional fool’s hopes and dreams being obliterated; that look on their faces as, for perhaps the first time in their life, they realize they just don’t have ‘it’ and will amount to nothing. Oh how I envy you Simon Cowell.
*On another note some difficult questions to ponder on the topic of rights: should people without a mind be treated as vegetables? I would say ‘yes, obviously’ but it seems it is not. And do we give the mentally disabled rights but not the same to capable animals simply because the distinction between man and pig is an easier call than between what is and isn’t a useful human?
Aside from all this I just haven’t been climbing much. I have to work for uni pretty much Monday to Friday and I work at least a day on the weekend, but swapping shifts to visit my girlfriend means I normally work both days or go to visit her, so the last term I’ve only had one day off every three weeks and given the unending shit conditions and bad weather it’s not really enough to get anything done. I had three weeks off at the end of the summer (after missing my flight to France) when the weather was ace but I was a bit low on motivation. I did get out once though to send a bugbear in Yorkshire. I guess all the training for France paid off and despite my protracted siege earlier in the season it turned out in the end that Grooved Arete at Kilnsey is a path and definitely 8a+ and not that illusive 8b. At least I did something though as I’d been working two jobs a day for a month but still forcing myself to train twice a day by getting up early to fingerboard and (literally) running from job 1 to the wall to my parents house for a shower and lift to job 2. Being the bitter, jaded man that I am it now really erks me when I hear those, typically lazy 30something year olds, tell me how they don’t have enough time for getting good at climbing; they obviously want to be good at climbing otherwise they wouldn’t be making excuses for it, they just lack discipline or sufficient motivation. This is perpetuated by the ‘psyched for being psyched’ fashion choice of modern climbers. It seems it’s cool to be ‘psyched’ but not cool to be disciplined, but really in my mind they’re the same thing. The times when I’m psyched are the times when I put climbing ahead of drinking/ socialising/ work/ etc.

Despite never actually getting out climbing I think I’ve actually improved. I think this is down to better injury management and working out better what I want to achieve with my limited time for actually sending stuff, mixing stuff up a bit more and trying to think out of the big grades=finger strength + endurance – weight equation’s paradigm of modern wall climbers. That can’t be all there is to it- Dan McManus was one of the fatest, weakest and most unfit climbers I’ve had the shame of being acquainted with but it gives me the boke to admit he burnt me off more than once.
*also of note I got some closure on a problem I broke a while ago called ‘Pockets Traverse’....maybe V10/font 7c+ now???

3 comments:

so carzy said...

你怎麼能經過一片海,而忘記它的藍?.........................

Dave Redpath said...

Nice one getting Grooved. Give us a shout if your heading to Malham for Magnetic!

雪糕 said...

路過--你好嗎..很棒的BLOG.........................................