So where to begin??? I went to Wales a couple of months ago and did a couple of old school classics, Jerry’s Roof and Bus stop (both v9) and flashed King of Drunks (v6) the same day. I then had a shot at Mr Fantastic, the v12 link up made famous my Mark Katz in Stick It, and in a few tries managed to fall of going up Bus Stop (which now feels like the living end). Was really psyched but sort of feel like it could be climbed on v9 strength with v12 keenness. I’ll hopefully get back in the autumn (ripped, with a boombox and my hair a bit longer) and do it but I don’t think it’ll really make me a v12 boulderer as it has no hard moves.
Also went to Queen’s crag for the first time. The lines here are amazing but they are all quite scary looking. I had a good day ticking all the least scary problems. Almost flashed the amazing Worldline (v8) and did The Power is ON! (v9). Well keen to go back and try Queen Kong on a brave day.
Other than that I rekindled my love hate relationship with the Yorkshireman sit start at Kyloe In. Being a punter I spent about 8 sessions too many getting up the thing, although my ascent was dubious to say the least as I missed out the first move. Basically I hate that first move to the jam; it wrecks my skin and my bum touches the ground from the jam so I ended up just starting there. Admittedly in some people’s books this will totally invalidate my ascent but I sort of feel like I’ll finish it off properly one day as there’s no doubt I’ll be going back to Kyloe at some point.
Also had a very hot day trying the easiest v11 in the world- Purely Belta at Shaftoe. There’s basically no way this is 8a, more like 7b+, and it’s not even a very good problem but I’m still drawn to it, not because it’s that hard but because it gets a big grade. You could argue big grades don’t mean anything, especially when they are so blatantly wrong, but for me they do: they mean some wad, for whatever reason, found the problem relatively difficult and sufficiently difficult to warrant a big grade. Mmmmm grades....
Anyway I’m now very much back in routes mode, albeit very bouldery ones, with a project at kilnsey, a project at malham and a trip to das Frankenjura next month I’ll be sure to keep it old school. Tabou Zizi for now!