Monday, November 19, 2007

Redpoint Hell/Self Obsession ctnd

Crappy slideshow of the hard bit of Lippy

Saturday, November 17, 2007


Saturday, 17 November 2007. The death toll reaches 1500 after a cyclone bulldozes through Southern Bangladesh, children starve across the third world (and beyond?) and wars are waged. But today I wasn’t thinking about that.... Saturday, 17 November 2007 will always be remembered by me as day 133 of my finger injury. Maybe I’m being a prima dona but it’s hard not to be mellow dramatic when you can’t do the one thing you love..... DEADHANGING. I can actually climb quite hard if I pick my problems and so I’ve been getting out loads. Even went trad-climbing the other day (nearly fell off a hard-severe jamming crack on second, nearly projectile vomited everywhere after my calves swelled up to double their normal size with lactic acid on an HVS but once i got on steep E4’s I got on fine).
I think I always thought I climbed for one set of hugely noble reasons; to stay fit, for the love of the outdoors and see beautiful places and because I loved the movement of rock climbing. Of course these are reasons I climb but now I realise that they aren’t the main ones. I’m not sure I’d keep climbing if I couldn’t ever train again. At the moment I find it hard to get excited about managing things because a part of me just feels (perhaps wrongly) like it would have been easy if i’d been training.
Today I went to Bowden and met the usual crew. Came super close to Born Lippy but was denied. Did it first try from the start of the lip and then flailed till it got dark. sigh