font, easter '06.
finger feeling a lot better. played on sprung at bowden today (the crimpiest problem in the world) and it'll go. unfortunately i am a bit fat and weak at the moment so it'll have to wait. Crash dieting here we come. maybe a rematch on monday if i survive paintball tomorow. hmmm
Saturday, September 22, 2007
font, easter '06.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Iker Pou on Action Direct is a bit more directly relevant to this blog. When I first saw this video of Iker dynoing madly between pockets the thing that struck me (after how annoying the commentary is) was how precise his dynoing must be. Power is clearly a prerequisite but I reckon a lot of smooth movers would really struggle to coordinate themselves to stick their finger into a shallow monodoigt in the deadpoint of a foot off dyno. Need to go to the frankenjura. Flatmate Sarah just came back raving about it and dumped the guidebook on the table- it’s huge and it’s only for frankenjura north. Maybe next summer, if my tendons can hack it.
Pumping Iron is my new favourite film and it would be yours too if you weren’t too proud to admit to liking a body-building docufilm. It’s all about Arnie winning Mr Olympia for the umpteenth time against some stiff competition like the incredible hulk and polished welsh roof, Lou Ferrigno. He seems to like training but what gives him his edge is his head. He’s a dirty competitor who lies and psyches everyone out to get ahead(hence his move into republican politics). The complete athlete in his niche.
Anyway it’s been 73 days since I fucked my finger and it still aint much better. Been climbing a fair bit though. Did 70 routes the other day at Bowden and Kyloe and yesterday I did Prime Time SS at Kyloe Out which is brilliant and very soft at v9 to boot. Get on it. It’s not very fingery and I think the weights have really helped with my body tension. Bit disappointed that yorkshiremen hurt my finger and a bit surprised that hitch-hikers didn’t. Once I’m up to deadhanging I think the sit starts should go pretty quick and then it’ll be 6000 hours deadhanging before there’s anything else to go at on my favourite crag.