Saturday, September 22, 2007

Magic Bus

font, easter '06.

finger feeling a lot better. played on sprung at bowden today (the crimpiest problem in the world) and it'll go. unfortunately i am a bit fat and weak at the moment so it'll have to wait. Crash dieting here we come. maybe a rematch on monday if i survive paintball tomorow. hmmm

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The Justification

I got a bit trigger happy with the posting of youtube videos on my blog. I’ve probably clogged up scottishclimbs.com’s blog update thing and so rather than say sorry I’m going to pretend it was calculated and that we all have something to learn from each of the videos and maybe we do??? Take Antony and his blind confidence. It’s hard to be objective about myself but most people I go climbing with often assume things will be worse than they are. Perhaps it’s just a safety mechanism so they don’t feel stupid struggling on something or bottling it on a route and if it helps you to relax then that’s great, I always tell my belayer that I’m probably going to fall off before I set off on something tricky and it helps me focus on the climbing and not worry about falling. That said I’m not very keen on people banging on about how rubbish they are right before they send they’re mega-project-x; it’s very British. Just think back to that X-factor with Darius. Everyone hated him because he openly thought he was good enough to win. Now I don’t remember if he did win or not but he did have a reasonably successful pop career so really he was right and he got his dream and so could you, probably (there are a lot of incompetent no-hopers out there who’s dreams are unattainable; you won’t win the lottery).
Iker Pou on Action Direct is a bit more directly relevant to this blog. When I first saw this video of Iker dynoing madly between pockets the thing that struck me (after how annoying the commentary is) was how precise his dynoing must be. Power is clearly a prerequisite but I reckon a lot of smooth movers would really struggle to coordinate themselves to stick their finger into a shallow monodoigt in the deadpoint of a foot off dyno. Need to go to the frankenjura. Flatmate Sarah just came back raving about it and dumped the guidebook on the table- it’s huge and it’s only for frankenjura north. Maybe next summer, if my tendons can hack it.
Pumping Iron is my new favourite film and it would be yours too if you weren’t too proud to admit to liking a body-building docufilm. It’s all about Arnie winning Mr Olympia for the umpteenth time against some stiff competition like the incredible hulk and polished welsh roof, Lou Ferrigno. He seems to like training but what gives him his edge is his head. He’s a dirty competitor who lies and psyches everyone out to get ahead(hence his move into republican politics). The complete athlete in his niche.
Anyway it’s been 73 days since I fucked my finger and it still aint much better. Been climbing a fair bit though. Did 70 routes the other day at Bowden and Kyloe and yesterday I did Prime Time SS at Kyloe Out which is brilliant and very soft at v9 to boot. Get on it. It’s not very fingery and I think the weights have really helped with my body tension. Bit disappointed that yorkshiremen hurt my finger and a bit surprised that hitch-hikers didn’t. Once I’m up to deadhanging I think the sit starts should go pretty quick and then it’ll be 6000 hours deadhanging before there’s anything else to go at on my favourite crag.