Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Ceuse of the North



after my rough weekend my psyche was at an all time low. Just when we thought things couldnt get any worse my elbows started really hurting. I had some time off and was just getting back into it, suffering from a bad case of weakness. What i needed was a new crag or route to get excited about. Well on Sunday passed i went to the anvil in Argyle. We all know what scottish sport crags are like so i probably took longer than i needed to to organise a trip there. On paper the anvil shared a lot of similarities with some good crags. It was far away and had an hours walk in. Well as it turned out the climbing was good too. I practically did the classic of the crag, shadowlands, but fell trying to swim through the seepage at the very top. Sigh. On a more succesful note i managed to flash heavy metal which is a poor mans version of dave redpaths new magnum opus, firepower. Im well psyched for a return visit to try this. Dave pissed it on sunday, day 10 of working it i think which was cool.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

3 days off Work!!!

Saturday
-walked half an hour to the train station
-waited for a train
-took a train to falkirk high
-took a bus to other falkirk train station
-took a bus to stirling
-took a bus to cambusbarron
-walked to a dingy quarry
-warmed up on dirty holds
-backed off pretty easy route i'd seconded before
-climbed another dirty route.
-reversed first 7 steps to get home

Sunday
-got the car and drove to pick up mike
-got lost with all the diversions on for some run
-finally headed off to.... DUMBUCK!!!
-tyre explodes on motorway
-wait for ages for RAC. Around this time it begins to rain
-get fixed and head off anyway
-dog up the route i fancied and pull some holds off
-dont fancy it anymore go home and have much more fun at the wall

Monday
-spend 15quid on a train ticket to dumby
-it rains
-go home and go to the wall

Unfortunately i didnt onsight e6 on saturday, redpoint 8b on sunday and climb bloc7c on monday but i had a good time at the wall.

The Queens Ear




Squeezing a new eliminate into a seemingly worked out crag is a feeling to cherish. "The Queens Ear" takes the compelling ramp and bald arete between yorkshireman and thin hand at kyloe. perhaps i should have called it 'the enterprise' because it takes the raw power of worf, the knowledge of data, the vision of Geordie la Forge (to spot the holds) and the drive of the enterprises factor 9 warp engine. However, after considerable time thinking i decided "the Queens Ear" was a much more fitting name. Reckon its about 7a+ from standing and 7b or 7b+ from sitting. Also it is no more eliminate than classics like yorkshireman (without the mono) and crouching tiger (without the butress to the right)